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Loose Diamond
Portuguese
Architectural fire The Portuguese cut belongs to a small canon of historical brilliance cuts, distinguished by its concentric tiers of triangular facets that...
Sourced to your specification
Cut
Portuguese
Origin
Lab-grown
Certification
IGI / GIA
Lead time
4-6 weeks
How it works
From your specification to your door
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01 Specify Tell us shape, carat and clarity.
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02 Curate We return three certified options.
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03 Reserve A 50% deposit locks in your stone.
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04 Settle Balance paid before dispatch.
4-6 weeks turnaround. Stones sourced from international laboratories.
An overview
The Portuguese cut is one of the most labour-intensive cuts in fine jewellery: a brilliant arrangement of up to 161 facets that channels light into deeper colour returns than a standard round brilliant. It sits between a cushion and a round in silhouette, with a small table that emphasises depth over surface flash. The result is a stone that feels alive in the hand.
Origin & development
Generally attributed to mid-20th century Portuguese lapidaries, the cut emerged from a tradition of high-precision faceting practised in Lisbon's jewellery houses. It was developed for stones of exceptional quality where the additional cutting time was justified by the optical return. Today it remains a niche cut, kept alive by collectors and a small group of master cutters.
How it's shaped
The Portuguese is built around two stacked crowns of triangular facets, each rotated relative to the other to multiply the points of light return. The pavilion mirrors the crown geometry: again, two layers of small triangular facets cut in concentric rings around a small culet. The cumulative facet count, typically 161, is roughly three times that of a round brilliant. Each stone takes considerably longer to cut than a standard shape.
Highlights
Best displayed in low, directional light where the stacked-facet geometry produces a layered fire that brilliants cannot match. Pairs well with classical solitaire settings where a six-prong configuration leaves the crown unobstructed. Suits collectors who prefer a stone with visible character over a uniformly bright table. A natural choice for an heirloom-grade engagement ring or a centrepiece pendant.
Cut
Portuguese
Carat range
1.0 to 5.0
Clarity
VS1 to FL
Origin
Lab-grown
Certification
IGI / GIA